Leonora Epstein is a design journalist and the founder of digital magazine Schmatta. Watch her talk about design writing in the era of Substack here.
You don’t hear much about renter drama in Los Angeles; New York City tends to claim that prize. But talk to Angelenos who’ve put down roots here, and you’ll hear your fair share of housing horror stories. Mine is a tragedy turned love story.
In 2021, my husband and I were living in the L.A. dream apartment. Perched high in the hills of Silver Lake, it offered views of Downtown through arched, Spanish casement windows. Golden hour washed over the built-in bookshelves in our sunken living room. The building, a 1920s duplex with one tenant above us, felt more like a house, with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and period details in every corner. I was pregnant and it was our fifth year living in the apartment when we got the email: The landlord was selling. We were crushed. Although we benefited from strict renter protections during Covid, we knew we’d have to move. We had entered that clichéd era of middle class life: new baby, time to buy a house. Silver Lake, the “Brooklyn” of L.A., wasn't going to be an option, so we looked further east — and thus began our love affair with Pasadena.
At that point, Pasadena was an unexplored area of “my” Los Angeles. I didn’t know much about it beyond Alicia Silverstone saying, “I’m from Pasadena” in the 1999 romantic comedy Blast From The Past (That line is actually a white lie told to her boyfriend’s mother as a soothing gesture, as if to say, “Don’t worry, I come from a good family.”).
Now, Pasadena is not “affordable” when it comes to home buying. In fact, the pockets of Pasadena where the “cool” celebrities live rival prices on the West Side of Los Angeles. But when my husband and I began looking, there were still small, historic houses to be had at “reasonable” rates. And that’s when we stumbled upon what would become our new home — a petite craftsman bungalow located in a historic district aptly named Bungalow Heaven, just a hop south of Altadena.
Once we moved in, we experienced a delightful culture shock. In Silver Lake, we never got to know our neighbors; the hilly streets with no sidewalks were ghost towns. But in our new neighborhood, people were constantly walking down the oak-lined streets. Everyone smiles and says hi. We have the option to walk to dinner, a pilates class, or to a mediocre coffee shop. A park at the center of the neighborhood has a playground and pickleball courts. On a crisp winter morning, you’d think you were in Colorado, gazing up at the snow-capped San Gabriel Mountains. A guy down the block is a model train enthusiast and his entire front yard is an intricate, miniature “Bungalow Heaven Railroad.”
There’s a porch culture, too, in a way that reminds me of New Orleans. We often have dinner or cocktails on the porch while our daughter scribbles in chalk across the driveway. It’s our social hour where we chat with friends and neighbors, pet their dogs or hold their babies. Our block became our community in the way I’d only seen in movies and TV featuring “wholesome America.” When we all came down with Covid, meals showed up on our doorstep. One neighbor even gave us a gallon of a homemade pineapple probiotic drink that could rival anything at Erewhon (we have one of those, too). And get this for quaint: Every September, we shut down a street to host our annual potluck block party, where the fire department brings a truck and ambulance for the kids to check out.
Going to Old Town on the weekends feels like being in a John Hughes movie — a mid-sized suburbia with echoes of a bygone era. Pasadena captures small-town life while still having the benefit of being attached to Los Angeles. You can still go to Hollywood parties or “see and be seen” in whatever new restaurant the kids at The Infatuation have deemed a hot spot. But it does feel separate from the hustle and bustle. And, in fact, we rarely leave.
The Altadena fire shook us. We were lucky; our home and surrounding neighborhood was untouched. But a part of our community was decimated. When we realized how close the fires came (less than a mile from our house), it was destabilizing. We knew dozens of people who lost their homes, and even more who were displaced. All of a sudden, everyone was talking about leaving the area for good, us included.
But where to go? I spent hours asking ChatGPT and Google to show me Pasadena clones: “small city America beautiful historic architecture not far from big airport.” But I couldn’t find a match that sparked any excitement.
I’d like to stay here forever. But the future might take us someplace else someday. Still, I’d leave a little piece of my heart in Pasadena.
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Restaurants for Lunch & Brunch
Homestate for Texas-style breakfast tacos and frozen spicy palomas. Kismet Rotisserie is just next door, serving fabulous chicken, pitas, and Mediterranean-inspired sides. Bar Betsy up in Altadena is the all-day companion to Betsy (more on that in a sec); if you come in the AM, don’t miss the sticky buns as they go fast. In the afternoon or evening, have a glass of wine and top-notch charcuterie. For coffee and pastries, we have a Tartine outpost not far from Old Town, but the best croissants are to be found at Car Artisan Chocolate on Colorado. Also on Colorado: Onigiri Time, a street vendor selling Japanese rice balls stuffed with insane fillings.
Restaurants for Dinner
For a special occasion, it’s always going to be Houston’s (part of the Hillstone group) for your all-American steakhouse with a dated “2000s contemporary” decor that’s now kitsch. You'll need a reservation. Otherwise, it’s back up to Betsy in Altadena for wood-fired cuisine in the best-designed restaurant in town (and getting a reservation can be tough, so reserve far in advance). For something more casual, try Thai at Miya (also in Altadena), or Woon for homestyle Chinese. Cannonball in South Pasadena has wonderful cocktails and biscuits.
Treats
Every Thursday starting at 4 pm, the South Pasadena Farmers Market hosts produce vendors and street food stalls. Get a sampling and eat your bounty on the lawn of the South Pasadena Library, a beautiful Mediterranean Revival. For a pick-me-up in Old Town, try Kinrose, a Persian ice cream parlor with flavors like sour cherry and sesame-halva.
Home & Decor Shopping
When it comes to home stores, Pasadena is far from cutting edge; it’s very, shall we say…traditional. What we do have is great antiques. Block out an afternoon to explore the multiple buildings of the Pasadena Antique Mall where you can find everything from campy tchotchkes to serious mid-century and deco pieces. I also highly recommend the Pasadena City College flea market, which takes place every first Sunday of the month. I’ve walked away with so many treasures: a large, framed drawing of a cat from the ‘70s; an American Girl Doll Kirsten trunk; a caned chair. Of course, there’s also the infamous Rose Bowl flea (second Sunday of the month), which should be experienced at least once, but insiders will tell you that it “used to be better.”
Take a Stroll
To take in some grand homes, take a walk around the Linda Vista neighborhood, near the Rose Bowl. It’s at the top of the arroyo, so you’ll also get a nice view. My own neighborhood, Bungalow Heaven, is a historically registered enclave known for its architecturally diverse bungalow homes. We’ve got craftsmans, Spanish styles, Tudors, and more. I’d explore North Chester and North Holliston Avenues between East Washington Boulevard and Orange Grove Boulevard. (And then you can walk to Woon for lunch.)
Museums
The Norton Simon is worth it alone just to take in the curvilinear building clad in Heath tiles. Last year, the museum undertook a massive exterior rehabilitation—tiles were restored and cleaned and the sculpture garden now has new landscaping and seating. (The patio cafe is lovely for a glass of wine.) Of course, it would be sacrilege to come to Pasadena and not visit The Huntington’s famous botanical gardens. The massive estate is home to 13 themed gardens. My favorites are the Chinese and Japanese gardens. The USC Pacific Asia Museum is a bit of a hidden gem, housed in a 1926 building built by Marston, Van Pelt & Maybury and inspired by Chinese palaces.
Architectural Treasures
You must, must, must, must take a tour of the Gamble House aka Doc Brown’s home in Back to the Future. The 1909 Greene and Greene-designed residence is a preservation of iconic craftsman architecture. The Pasadena Playhouse, a Colonial Revival building circa 1925, will only take a moment of your time to look at, but it is very cute. The Caltech campus is a peaceful oasis of Spanish Mission and modern structures. Wander over to the reflecting pool to take in 1960s modernist design, then delight in the adjacent turtle ponds. At the center of campus, the circular Beckman Auditorium, built in 1964, is a stunning example of New Formalism. If you make your way over to the historic Langham Hotel, don’t miss the 1930s-era Picture Bridge, which features replicas of paintings that serve as a “living storybook” of California’s history.
